A Contemporary Take on Cameo Jewelry

The Tradition of Cameos

Traditional cameos are classically distinct: a raised, usually stark white figure protruding from a colored background—all meticulously carved in shell or semi-precious stone. They commonly feature the profile of a woman, often wearing a dress and donning hair flowers and jewelry herself.

What stands out about cameos is their technical skill and detail imbued in a miniature work of wearable art.

A Shift in the Cameo

A connection with my father through antique shopping is what initially drew me to cameo jewelry when I was a young girl. Now years later, I wanted to create my own take on cameos that are not carved but constructed with two stones, joined as an intarsia to create a silhouette.

Instead of using shell or carnelian, I was able to broaden my color palette, often pairing a patterned stone with a solid-colored one for more differentiation.

What changes is that there is less detail than traditional cameos in the almost abstracted facial profile, and that contrast becomes their defining element.

In-progress moment in my studio with the cameo intarsia pieces put together before shaping and polishing them.

Picture this: Framing the Cameo

Settings for cameos traditionally range from a simple metal border to overly ornate engraved leaf designs—like a Renaissance picture frame. For my contemporary cameos, I chose design elements that were parsed-down curves and scrolls that are often seen with casual contemporary southwest jewelry that I admire.

Phosphosiderite and obsidian cameo necklace modeled on the artist for scale.

Gestalt of Changes

All of these (what felt like small) changes created something different from the original concept of a cameo by stripping the figure down to a line separating two materials. This allowed me to explore the human form in a simpler, more accessible way than my signature figurative inlay jewelry.

For me, my Contemporary Cameo Collection reinterprets tradition through process, bold color, and simplicity.